Facial serum formulation.

There is a very fine line between a facial gel, lotion and oil serums. I’ve seen all three consistencies (versions) of a serum so I decided that what makes a serum is the inclusion of high performance actives and not just if it’s an oil (gel or simple oil) or lotion or water based gel product. There has been an arguement to decide which carrier is best for delivering these actives across the stratum corneum and each type has its pros (and cons).

The other day I bought a dermaroller – 0.5 mm – and I decided to formulate a serum to use alongside. I found some vitamin A palmitate, vitamin E, sea buckthorn seed oil, evening prime rose oil, rosehip seed oil and extract, with jojoba and almond oils as carrier.

As an aside, I made a body serum for myself and a client to use on stretchmarks (thighs and bum) with a 2.0 mm derma roller with all the above ingredients including castor oil and peppermint essential oil.

I chose all these oils for their nutrient rich compositions. High in GLA (gamma linolenic acids – rose hip and EPO) which aids skin moisturisation, resemblance to the sebum and easy shunt route penetration (jojoba), small chain triglycerides and fatty acids to aid skin penetration, emollient properties, antioxidant values, etc. Peppermint essential oils helps with vascular perfusion of the area which in turn can deliver nutrient rich blood to the site of application, nourishing the skin from the inside and giving that tingling we all love. Vitamin A is well known to contain retinoids which increase cell turnover and alleviate wrinkles. It can increase sun sensitivity especially with the Naija sunny weather, so I advise to use this at night only and use sunscreen when going outdoors. I use it on a quiet Friday night in when I know I’ll be home throughout Saturday and possibly Sunday.

I would’ve included some borage oil as it is high in these fatty acids (GLA) but it smells quite eggy and the client may not be able to stand it (it can even overpower the smell of essential oils). But it is a great oil to work with save for the smell. I found this odour reducer in the aromantic store but i find it too expensive given the current exchange rate. If you know how else to handle this please let me know in the comment section.

I’ll be working on water and oil based gel serums in the coming weeks.


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